The salt cell uses a process known as electrolysis to produce chlorine. Its important to take note of what lights are lit up on the cell to know if its working or not. Every couple hours the cell will go through a process to test the water temperature, flow rate, and salt level. The lights will flash green/red and then settle once the test is over. The salt, flow and cell lights all need to be solid green to be producing chlorine. If they aren't solid green, the cell will give an explanation of what is wrong.
Salt Level:
The water needs to have 2800 ppm to 4500 ppm of salt. A level below 2800 wont produce chlorine, and a level above 4500 is very corrosive and not recommended. Adding more salt to the pool will NOT increase the chlorine levels, you just have to make sure its in that range. After adding salt, wait 24 hours for it to dilute and for your reading to be accurate.
Flow:
This light indicates the status of water flow throught the cell. It requires 25 gallons per minute flowing through it or it won't operate. If the pump is on and primed and the flow light is still red, the filter is most likely dirty. Backwash if its sand or rinse your filters if they are cartidges.
Water Temperature:
Salt cells do not operate in too cold of water. In the spring you can't fully trust the cell is working until the water is above 60 degrees.
Cell:
If the cell light is solid green, the cell is producing chlorine. If its flashing the cell needs to be inspected. The blades on the inside might have clacium built up on them and the cell might need to be cleaned. If that isn't the issue, the cell is at the end of its life and needs to be replaced. Their lifespan is about 3-5 years or 10,000 working hours. If the light is completely off, the cell is off and not producing, most likely because its in an off-period and will come back on shortly.
Chlorine Output:
To increase the chlorine production you have to adjust the "sanitizer output" at the bottom of the cell with the more/less buttons. If your salt cell is connected to automation, you will have to adjust output through the panel. Read our other article on how to do this in different systems. The chlorine level in your pool should be between 1-3 ppm. If its above this you should turn the output down. Running your cell at a higher output than needed shortens its lifespan.
Superchlorinate:
Theres a boost setting that turns the chlorinator to 100% for 24 hours. Press the "more" and "less" buttons together to turn boost on or off. The lights will scroll through all the outputs continuously while in boost. If your cell is connected to automation you'll have to turn it on on through that, and the lights will just show that it is on 100%.
Manual: https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/product-related/product-manuals/pool-and-spa-equipment/intellichlor/IntelliChlor_Owners_Manual_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf